Above 81 Degrees and Climbing

Above 81 Degrees and Climbing Coordinates: 81.06.593 N 12.27.252 E We have made it to the highest point yet in our expedition, above 81 degrees latitude (check out a map/globe and you'll see how high up North we are). We journeyed this far north to get to the ice pack, where the Polar Bears tend to spend most if the summer hunting for food, primarily seals. It's been a tough go of finding the bears so far, no sightings on land nor out on the ice, perhaps due to the sea ice reaching farther north this year because of global warming. Or maybe it's because they're not giving us a heads up to where they're hanging out. Regardless it's our task we wish to undertake in finding them, not them finding us. Sailing through giant tabular icebergs, not so rare in the Antarctic but fairly rare in the Arctic are always awe-inspiring. An occasional seal will pop up through the ice surface, check out the scene, and then dart back under the ice, eating the plankton on which it feeds, and that attracts the Polar Bears to the area. We also had a rare and spectacular Ivory Gull fly over the Vavilov's bow. The Ivory Gull is the farthest northerly bird species on Earth. Google one if can, it's so incredibly beautiful and majestic. You know you're really, really North when you see one of these guys. We also took a Zodiac out to explore some of the area that wasn't inundated with ice, but no signs of terrestrial life was discovered. It's so serene out in the open water, the ice being pushed aside by our ship, and the fog rolling in from time to time, changing the view of the horizon, of the light, of the shades of blue and white that dominate the surroundings. Sitting on the bridge, high up on a perch above the sea gives an amazing perspective. The ship cutting through the water, steaming towards an endless sky, a never-darkening sky adds a serenity and contemplativeness that's impossible to replicate back home. It makes one's mind wander, to think about one's life and circumstance, to count one's blessings and put one's priorities in order. Thank God I'm not having a midlife crisis! ;-) After many late night carousings it's time for an early night tonight for some much needed sleep. I plan to get up and meet Amir on deck at 5:30 a.m. to scan the horizon for Polar Bears, a hot cup of tea (its about 38 degrees Fahrenheit outside) and take in all of this dreamy imagery as much as possible, as long as it lasts. Wish you all could be here!