Monday, August 5, 2013

Homeward Bound

Homeward Bound
 
After our last land excursion, followed by an Arctic plunge (the water is 7 degrees warmer in the Arctic than in the Antarctic), we headed back to the ship and finished off our last day out in the open seas. Tonight is the Captain's Dinner, and we make our way back into Longyearbyen where we will disembark after breakfast tomorrow.

It really has been a wonderful trip, so much to please the senses and I stuck to my promise not to compare the two Polar expeditions on which I've been. The Arctic and Antarctica have been so unique in their own special ways. Apart from the obvious, like Polar Bears in the North and Penguins in the South, the feeling you get on the high seas and vastness of space has a different energy. The staff and crew have really tried their best to give us the best possible experiences. Their knowledge of the area, their attempt to bring a varied and different adventure each day, coupled with the extraordinary sighting of approximately 15 different Polar Bears was notable and exceptional.  At times I felt that caution was the priority of the day (safety is a good thing), and at times I would have liked to have gotten a wee bit closer to the bears.  But that's just me. One Ocean Expeditions prides itself that in 13 years, they've never had to fire a shot (warning or otherwise) at a bear if they strayed in too close to the passengers. That is a great thing. As they have said, one bad incident can really ruin an expedition (and I assume, would be lousy PR).
 
I would definitely recommend One Ocean and largely Polar Exploration to others. Like most things in life, don't build the experience up too much in your head before going.  The lower the  expectations the better, and you'll be amazed and surprised with what you discover and encounter, as well as meeting such wonderful fellow passengers and staff. I feel I have made some friends for life, and some of the best memories have been the gut-wrenching laughs made with these newfound friends. I guess that's all part of the adventure, now isn't it!
 
One more day in the Arctic after I disembark tomorrow A.M., then back to Oslo, then back to the States on Thursday. Thanks so so much for reading the blog and hopefully enjoying this adventure vicariously as I have had enjoying it in reality. I hope that there will be many more adventures to come, and many more to share. Without any Internet, I have no idea if you have been reading this or what you have been responding to. 
 
Regardless, I'm glad you came along for the ride!!
 
Much love and be well,
 
Dave

Sunday, August 4, 2013

Downward Dog and Heading South

Downward Dog and Heading South
 
I asked a friend on board (Yoshi) whose birthday was today (Sunday) what he would like for his birthday. He said to go to Yoga with him at 6:30 a.m. Crap, 6:30 a.m!   I've been dragging a little bit because I haven't been getting much sleep. It's my fault; I sleep great here on the ship, I just don't sleep enough because I'm carousing late into the night with pals.  Plus when it is bright and sunny at midnight, it doesn't help trying to get to bed. So I got my ass out of bed at 6:15 after 4 hours of sleep and worked that Downward Dog until I felt like barking! (Sorry Hickory). Meigan the Yoga instructor was impressed, and I kinda committed to going tomorrow morning. We'll see.
 
I'm spending some great quality time with John and Mette, staff on the ship, he's an Aussie and she's a Norwegian. Both also were among the team that won the Nobel Peace Prize of members of the International Committee for Banning Landmines in 1997. Fascinating personal stories; Mette especially is so humble and sincere, and so self-disclosing about her personal struggles of PTSD working in Afghanistan.  Such interesting people are on this ship - not many slouches - and very passionate about their ambitions and challenges. Very inspirational.
 
As we head south, it feels like the expedition is coming to an end, which it is. One more full day tomorrow. Today was another great day of excursions, Puffin colonies perched on the rocky hillside, the serenity of the ice, Zodiacing through it as we come up on glacier faces, and a beautiful sunny sky to bring the day to a warm and fulfilling end. The sunset, which isn't really a sunset; more like a sun bounce on the horizon was a great last moment of Sunday and impetus to get my ass to bed before midnight.  And I promised Mette I would be at Yoga tomorrow at 6:30. Ugh!

Wildlife

Wildlife
 
I just wanted to share all the animals seen on this expedition. With 2+ days ahead, this list may still increase. The sheer abundance and diversity of wildlife has definitely surpassed my expectations that I had before starting this journey to the Arctic!
 
Animals seen on this expedition:
 
Birds
  • Barnacle Goose
  • Common Eider
  • Red-throated Diver  (Red-throated Loon)
  • Northern Fulmar
  • Purple Sandpiper
  • Black-legged Kittiwake
  • Ivory Gull
  • Glaucous Gull
  • Arctic Tern
  • Great Skua
  • Arctic Skua
  • Little Auk
  • Brunnich's Guillemot
  • Black Guillemot
  • Atlantic Puffin
  • Snow Bunting

Mammals
  • Polar Bear (!)
  • Svalbard Reindeer (Caribou)
  • Arctic Fox
  • Atlantic Walrus
  • Ringed Seal
  • Bearded Seal
  • Harbor Seal
  • Northern Minke Whale

Saturday, August 3, 2013

I'll Trade You a Bear for a Sunny Day


I'll Trade You a Bear for a Sunny Day
 
Our land excursions have really been awesome. So many bears (as of Friday evening we have a count of 14 Polar Bear encounters). The staff have obviously a sense as to where the bears may be, but an encounter of a bear swimming from the shore to try to catch a seal on a floating piece of ice, stalking his prey, was really phenomenal to watch and experience (the seal got away). Reindeer (Caribou), Minke Whales and Seals have really made the mammal observation outstanding!  Their have been a few challenges though; the weather the most glaring. The first 2 days brought brilliant sunny skies and great contrasts of land and sea. However, for the last several days, overcast skies has made it challenging; the mood of the passengers  certainly does get affected by the grey days, and some photos have a washed out feel to them. But honestly if this is the largest problem, it most certainly is not a big deal in the grand scheme.  The abundance of wildlife has certainly been fulfilled and more!  Wonderful walks/explorations on land that are free of Polar Bears have been great, and the friends I've made (some I feel for life) and great laughs shared have been terrific - actually better than I'd expected.  Tonight is a picnic on the stern of the ship. A Barbie in the Arctic. And tomorrow is supposed to bring sunny skies!!  Life is good.

Thursday, August 1, 2013

Excursions and Animals Galore

Excursions and Animals Galore Coordinates 79.26.433 N 19.59.808 E After the brilliant success of Wednesday morning's Polarbearpalloza, we made it onto dry land later in the afternoon at Phippsoya, part of the Seven Islands at the northernmost corner of the Svalbard Islands. There after a wild zodiac ride we came upon a 100 plus group of Atlantic Walrus, some as big as 3.5 meters long and 1500 kg (that's 3,300 lbs) big! You have to approach them pretty quietly so as to not spook them, because they can immediately haul out to sea and possibly squash their young in the process. They have no real predator (Polar Bears don't mess with them) and love to lay on the beach and sleep. Their tusks are amazing, and I have some great pictures for the future to share to prove it. Another sighting of a Polar Bear and her cub on the way back to the ship made Wednesday made a very memorable day. Today (Thursday) started off with an early morning Zodiac excursion to Alkefjellet for the largest breeding colony of Brunnich's Guillemots. After being greeted by a Northern Minke Whale a mere 200 feet off the ship's starboard , we made our way by Zodiac to Alkefjellet. Literally hundreds of thousands of these amazing seabirds were hanging on and/or nesting on the sheer cliff walls of Alkefjellet. These incredible birds were flying and swimming all around us, and the racket they made was unreal!! I have a great video of this to post when I get back. Alkefjellet was incredibly dramatic, shrouded in mist, and its pinnacles jut out of the cliff side in a severe and unique landscape unseen so far in this journey. Getting back on land later this afternoon, the past few days has been an explosion in wildlife, scenery and excitement for all on board. Some great excursions, and more lie ahead! A journey is a person in itself; no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policing, and coercion are fruitless. We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip tak es us. -- John Steinbeck